Sweet Surprise

I was surprised by Sheeba this week. I randomly tug on my hair to see where she stretches to, and lately she's been the same length.

Then this happened:

Sorry for the blur. I'm on work related travel and had no one to snap a better pic. 

She's at what my tailor would call my 'high waist'. 

I'm excited and terrified at the same time. By next year she'll be rump length.

IpromiseIwontcuther. 

IpromiseIwontcuther. 

IpromiseIwontcuther. 

Investing 102

...continued from 'Investing 101'

Once you pull the trigger and invest in some bundles of pure cuticle goodness, you have to be aware of the ‘maintenance’ requirements associated with such acquisition .

Shady Weft

For one, you’ll need to inspect your wefts. I always do this, because there have been times where I have received a badly sewn bundle, installed it, and lived in regret for the next 8 weeks. Inspect both sides, and if anything seems astray or not done properly, contact your vendor for an exchange. One thing I do not do is spend my hard earned money on hair that will morph into a rats nest. No no, not I.

After passing inspection, you need to wash your hair. I’ve only ever received a batch of good smelling hair ONCE in my weave acquisition history. Washing and air drying your bundles will allow you to see if the hair has been processed (steamed or dyed) and will also reveal its true curl pattern. I usually wash and condition with Herbal Essence’s Hello Hydration since I tend to purchase curly hair, and air dry by either laying my bundles on a towel or hanging them up with a pant hanger (the kind that has clips).

Now that your hair is completely dry, you will need to seal your wefts to minimize shedding and reinforce the track. If you’re splitting your wefts, make sure you seal both sides of the track TWICE and allow it to dry for a few hours. I learned to seal my wefts via the University of YouTube. The video I learned from was actually created by Rochelle Yanique - someone I went to college with, but it has since been taken down. This one is a great alternative; just make sure that you purchase the correct glue. I have used both Dritz Fray Check and Aleene’s Fabric Fusion and have no preference, they both do the trick.

Even after sealing, you'll experience some shedding. Nothing major, just a strand or two whenever you comb/ wash your unit. 

If you’re planning on making a wig out of your purchase, now is when you’ll want to set up your wig cap and head. I purchased a generic wig head and increased the circumference to mimic the actual size of my head. This prevents you from creating a wig that doesn’t fit your head snuggly.

If you purchased a closure, you will need to bleach the knots. I once RUINED a closure by using honey, baking soda, and peroxide in lieu of powder and developer. Don't cut corners on this step. Here are a few tuts on how to properly bleach your knots. I honestly never attempted to do it again and prefer to leave that to my hairdresser at StudioTress. 

Now it’s time to sew. There’s no rhyme or reason to the way I lay my tracks, I just make sure that I do not puncture the wefts.

NEVER cut or sew through the wefts.

I recommend folding the weft when you reach the end of one row to begin another. And sewing around the weft.  Cutting is the main culprit of shedding.

'Faux closure' with curly hair

When creating a unit, I like to sew on the inside of the wig cap along my hairline and along the part, this creates a ‘faux’ closure for when I don’t have one. I only recommend this for curly hair. It doesn't have the same effect with straight hair. 

If using a closure, like to pin it onto my weaving cap, then trace around it with white eyeliner. This way I have a general idea of where to finish laying my tracks. Or you can create a centered u shape and rotate it to which ever side you want your part on.

Once you're done sewing, you can either cut out the section intended for your closure, or sew your closure onto the cap with a layer of skin toned pantyhose in between to serve as your 'scalp'.

I'm actually in the process of creating a new 'illusion' so 'Investing 201' will be a pictorial of how I put it all together.

Stay tuned...

Happy Birthday!!

My Beloved Sheeba, 

Your birthday was last week and this was the first year that I didn't do anything special to celebrate. 

For your 1st birthday I got a press. For the 2nd I dyed you chestnut brown. For the 3rd we did a hair show, and on the 4th I celebrated your magnanimous blowout during a photo shoot.

My darling, I think of you as my first child ( minus the 4am feedings and smelly diapers). My baby has grown up quickly.  

I try to celebrate you... daily actually, but love to do something extra special to commemorate the day I chose to free myself from chemicals and to appreciate my natural appearance. When the Most High made me, He decided that I should have thick (sometimes unruly) kinky, curly long hair. 

Who am I to mess with His creation? Rather, I choose daily to embrace your curly ways. You're my precious crown, and the more I care for you, the more you blossom and are noticed by others. 

My first post (ever) highlights how you were born and each year brings a new lesson. This year I think the greatest lesson I learned was being fearless. Fearless enough to share you in public and online with friends, family, and complete strangers. 

Thank you for always having a story, conversation starter, or lesson stored in your spirally tendrils. 

So for your 5th year of life, while I did not 'do' anything special, I promise to keep you classy, and not cut you once you reach my waist. No worries my sweetheart , I've patiently waited for you to reach such lengths and love you enough not to hinder you.

Grow freely my darling. 

Investing 101

Top: 2013 install; Bottom: 2014 u-part wig

One of my first 'blog' posts was a video review of Desir Hair's Brazilian Kinky Curly.

I wanted BoBraz...badly. So after doing some YouTube and Facebook stalking, and asking Eugenie (their sales rep) a million and one questions, I purchased a closure and 2 bundles. They just so happened to be on sale so, I actually lucked out on my first 'investment.'

Since then I've steadily built my weave portfolio and have an arsenal of u-part wigs affectionately called the 'Seasonal Collection,' Brazilian Curly in the Spring, Afro Kinky in the Summer, and Brazilian Straight in the Winter. 

The main purpose of this post is to guide you in making such 'investments.' As you know, I enjoy hiding my hair. For one, I don't have to do anything to it for 4-6 weeks at a time, and such rest allows Sheeba to flourish- inches at a time.

I'm currently on the hunt for a 'Fall' install, so here are 10 steps I consider when adding to the portfolio ...

1. What type of style am I interested in achieving?

2. What type of hair does this require? (Curly, Afro Kinky, Straight)

Once a few vendors are identified:

3. Is the hair pure cuticle or processed? Though pure cuticle is considered the upper echelon of weave, in my experience some processed hair has held up for years if no heat is applied.

4. Are closures available? I don't like any leave-out, and never like taking the chance of purchasing hair and not having Sheeba or another closure match in color and texture. 

5. Are samples available? Ask for a sample. Wash it, play with it, apply heat to it and see if it 'snaps' back. I once requested samples of Malaysian hair because I was in love with  the big soft curls. And after washing and air drying I noticed some dye release (see below) and the curls I loved never came back... Needless to say, I moved onto another vendor. 

After selecting the type of hair and a vendor:

6. Are there any YouTube reviews on the hair and customer service? I'm BIG on customer service, and will spread the word when it's above par, but if the service is questionable, I prefer to take my money elsewhere. 

7. Does your particular vendor have sales? I love a good deal, and will wait for a sale. Everyone has a price point. Mine is around $100/ bundle. Some vendors will adjust their price for multiple bundles and a closure, so ask. 

So after navigating the research phase, I purchase, and wait expectantly to play with my latest addition. 

It doesn't end there though, my bundles last because I prep them to ensure their longevity. 

Once you've received you're bundles of draping human hair luciousness:

8. Wash, condition, and air dry the hair. If you notice dye release ( the water changing color) you hair has been processed. This isn't all bad, but be prepared to condition frquently and not to apply too much heat since the hair may tangle easily (birds nest at the nape of your neck) or the wave or curl pattern may change ( I'm just speaking from experience). 

9. If you purchased a closure, you'll want to bleach your knots. I'm horrible at this and have butchered quite a few closures. Thank goodness for concealer and foundation tricks that work wonders to produce a realistic scalp. 

10. Seal your wefts. I cannot stress this last step enough. Sealing BOTH sides of your weft will eliminate virtually all shedding and extend the life of your bundle. I use Fray Check or Aleene's fabric glue to seal mine and only lose a few strands whenever I comb/ style my units. 

After sealing you're ready to install or make a u-part. The next few posts shall highlight a few of my favorite YouTube tutorials on sealing, bleaching knots, and u-parting that have helped in creating many of the units I currently have. 

Happy investing. 

Roses Are Best

I find it befitting that on the eve of one of the most romantical (yes that is a word in MY dictionary) holidays of the year, that I share with you a tidbit from my “Drape” arsenal.

Rose Hip See Oil.

My love affair with rose hips began a few years ago, when I began researching herbs and Ayurvedic blends to grow and retain my length. I originally did not purchase the oil, but rather, included the actual dried rose hip in a herbal tea constitution that I would drink daily.

The more I drank, the more Sheeba grew and looked vibrant. So I purchased a few bottles of the oils for each of the herbs in my blend…rose hip seed being one of them.

By now you know that I love mixing my own hair products. Cleansers, moisturizers, deep conditioners, serums, & etc., you name it, I have a recipe for it, but I never paid attention to the rose hips until I was researching ingredients for a pomade to calm my itchy (super dry) scalp, and discovered the wonders of the oil in my Herbal Dictionary.

Rose hips and rose hip seed oil originate from the Andes and is actually the fruit of the wild rose plant. High in Vitamin C & A, essential fatty acids, and antioxidants, this part of the plant is commonly used for skin conditions because of its ability to aid in the regeneration of damaged skin cells. In our sociaety, it's mainly used in cosmetics for wrinkles, skin scars, etc. Being that I suffer from dermatitis (dandruff), I decided to use the oil for a trial period of 6-8 weeks and determine whether or not it was a keeper.

3 years later…

It’s my miracle oil. I apply it straight out of the bottle and massage it onto my scalp every now and then. If you have ever used rose water to moisturize your hair, the effects are similar, softer hair that remains moisturized long after the product has been applied. I also love how it’s not heavy; Sheeba (despite being low porosity) absorbs the rose hip seed oil relatively quickly, so that there isn’t a layer of oil resting on my strands as with other products in my arsenal.

I also continue to drink my herbal tea constitution comprised of rose hips and other herbs known to improve hair growth, and can honestly say that I have not had a cold, the flu, or any other ailment since 2011. Having immune boosting properties is another reason why this herb has risen to the top of my list of must have products.

Whether you are into complementary medicine or not, I highly recommend adding rose hips, or rose hip seed oil to your rotation (after seeking medical advice from an ACTUAL doctor), your hair (and health) will thank you.

I hope this week is filled with love in every way possible, and that you get roses (both the flower and the oil).

Happy Growing.

Let's Put a Pin in That...

Just a few housekeeping items before I begin:

1. SUBSCRIBE to the right -->
I post rather infrequently, and really want you to receive upcoming posts, announcements, etc. Especially relating to item #2,

2. Quite a few of you have been asking about my Sprout Serum and how to place an order, batches are being made in regular and extra strength and ordering instructions via www.sosheeba.com will be announced soon.

Now…

I have a confession to make.

I just learned how to pin-curl my hair.

I never knew how to until this week, and I must admit that it’s changed my life for the better. When the thought of pin-curling my hair previously came up, I would always dismiss it because I associate pin-curling with having relaxed, or straightened hair.

Since I generally only press my hair one a year and wrap it nightly with a silk scarf, there was really no need for me to acquire a pin-curling routine.

After playing these tutorials on a continuous loop, I think I may have discovered the secret to stretching my two strand twist protective style from 2.5/3 to 4 weeks.

A while back I blogged about my protective style routine for when I don’t have a sew-in:
• Week 1: Twist and curl
• Week 2: Up-do
• Week 3: Low bun

To be honest, my twist and curl variation never last more than 2-3 days and would then make its way to the up-do by day 3. So my twists would usually last for 2.5 weeks only to end up looking fuzzy and in desperate need of revitalization.

These curls have been bouncing around the DMV for the past 5 days and do not look like they’re going to give up until I decide otherwise.

So I’m adding pin-curling to the repertoire of “techniques every naturalista should master,” and if you haven’t mastered the technique, you definitely should.

-Sheeba

The Flip-Side: High Porosity Hair

I recently posted on low porosity hair, and how to properly condition and maintain moisture in an effort to grow and retain length. If you have high porosity hair - or porous hair - I didn't leave you in a lurch. This post is for you.

If you tried the porosity test, and noticed that your hair quickly made its way to the bottom of your glass, that's an indication of how your hair absorbs and maintains moisture. Porous hair absorbs moisture (water) rather quickly, but - just as quickly - loses it. I like to compare high porous hair to a chamois. Great at absorbing water, and equally great at releasing it.

Lifted cuticles are the main reason for this leak in moisture. Those with high porosity hair tend to find that their hair will be moisturized after washing and treating, but dry within a few days.

So how does one retain moisture? Closing the cuticle of the hair shaft.

There are various ways to seal your hair so that moisture does not escape as quickly. Start by increasing your use of coconut oil. I use coconut oil for...everything. It's the Franks Red Hot Wing Sauce of my life. I put it in my hair, slather it on as lotion, make sugar scrubs, and use it to remove make up, etc. Coconut, along with Olive and Sunflower oil are known for their deep penetrating properties. Use of any of these oils will not only infuse your hair with moisture, but also prevent your hair from drying out quickly. If porous hair is the reason for dry hair and ends, adding some oil to your ends can also help.

Another useful porous hair accouterment is deep conditioning. Because you hair loses moisture at a quicker rate than others with medium or low porosity hair, you'll want to provide your hair with more moisture than normal. This is especially useful in the winter (drier) months of the year when cold temperatures have a habit of leeching your hair of moisture.

I may be the only fan of ACV rinses. They work wonders for my dandruff, product build-up, and low porosity hair. They also work for those with high porosity hair. Because the cuticle of your hair is constantly raised (allowing moisture to be absorbed and depleted), a weekly ACV rinse will close the cuticle and seal in moisture, essentially improving the condition of your hair.

For those of you who have noticed that the porosity of your hair has changed, this usually occurs after chemically altering (relaxing, coloring, etc.) your strands. Relaxing or coloring your hair will lift the cuticle to allow the color or relaxer to penetrate the hair strand, often times, the hair remains that way.

Also, if your hair is already highly porous, you'll want to be extra careful when considering adding chemicals to your hair. Coloring and relaxing your hair lifts the cuticle in order for the chemicals to alter the hair shaft, many times, the hair becomes damaged and the cuticles remain lifted, thereby allowing moisture to flow through, but not remain.

The more you know, the more you grow.