Roses Are Best

I find it befitting that on the eve of one of the most romantical (yes that is a word in MY dictionary) holidays of the year, that I share with you a tidbit from my “Drape” arsenal.

Rose Hip See Oil.

My love affair with rose hips began a few years ago, when I began researching herbs and Ayurvedic blends to grow and retain my length. I originally did not purchase the oil, but rather, included the actual dried rose hip in a herbal tea constitution that I would drink daily.

The more I drank, the more Sheeba grew and looked vibrant. So I purchased a few bottles of the oils for each of the herbs in my blend…rose hip seed being one of them.

By now you know that I love mixing my own hair products. Cleansers, moisturizers, deep conditioners, serums, & etc., you name it, I have a recipe for it, but I never paid attention to the rose hips until I was researching ingredients for a pomade to calm my itchy (super dry) scalp, and discovered the wonders of the oil in my Herbal Dictionary.

Rose hips and rose hip seed oil originate from the Andes and is actually the fruit of the wild rose plant. High in Vitamin C & A, essential fatty acids, and antioxidants, this part of the plant is commonly used for skin conditions because of its ability to aid in the regeneration of damaged skin cells. In our sociaety, it's mainly used in cosmetics for wrinkles, skin scars, etc. Being that I suffer from dermatitis (dandruff), I decided to use the oil for a trial period of 6-8 weeks and determine whether or not it was a keeper.

3 years later…

It’s my miracle oil. I apply it straight out of the bottle and massage it onto my scalp every now and then. If you have ever used rose water to moisturize your hair, the effects are similar, softer hair that remains moisturized long after the product has been applied. I also love how it’s not heavy; Sheeba (despite being low porosity) absorbs the rose hip seed oil relatively quickly, so that there isn’t a layer of oil resting on my strands as with other products in my arsenal.

I also continue to drink my herbal tea constitution comprised of rose hips and other herbs known to improve hair growth, and can honestly say that I have not had a cold, the flu, or any other ailment since 2011. Having immune boosting properties is another reason why this herb has risen to the top of my list of must have products.

Whether you are into complementary medicine or not, I highly recommend adding rose hips, or rose hip seed oil to your rotation (after seeking medical advice from an ACTUAL doctor), your hair (and health) will thank you.

I hope this week is filled with love in every way possible, and that you get roses (both the flower and the oil).

Happy Growing.

Let's Put a Pin in That...

Just a few housekeeping items before I begin:

1. SUBSCRIBE to the right -->
I post rather infrequently, and really want you to receive upcoming posts, announcements, etc. Especially relating to item #2,

2. Quite a few of you have been asking about my Sprout Serum and how to place an order, batches are being made in regular and extra strength and ordering instructions via www.sosheeba.com will be announced soon.

Now…

I have a confession to make.

I just learned how to pin-curl my hair.

I never knew how to until this week, and I must admit that it’s changed my life for the better. When the thought of pin-curling my hair previously came up, I would always dismiss it because I associate pin-curling with having relaxed, or straightened hair.

Since I generally only press my hair one a year and wrap it nightly with a silk scarf, there was really no need for me to acquire a pin-curling routine.

After playing these tutorials on a continuous loop, I think I may have discovered the secret to stretching my two strand twist protective style from 2.5/3 to 4 weeks.

A while back I blogged about my protective style routine for when I don’t have a sew-in:
• Week 1: Twist and curl
• Week 2: Up-do
• Week 3: Low bun

To be honest, my twist and curl variation never last more than 2-3 days and would then make its way to the up-do by day 3. So my twists would usually last for 2.5 weeks only to end up looking fuzzy and in desperate need of revitalization.

These curls have been bouncing around the DMV for the past 5 days and do not look like they’re going to give up until I decide otherwise.

So I’m adding pin-curling to the repertoire of “techniques every naturalista should master,” and if you haven’t mastered the technique, you definitely should.

-Sheeba

The Flip-Side: High Porosity Hair

I recently posted on low porosity hair, and how to properly condition and maintain moisture in an effort to grow and retain length. If you have high porosity hair - or porous hair - I didn't leave you in a lurch. This post is for you.

If you tried the porosity test, and noticed that your hair quickly made its way to the bottom of your glass, that's an indication of how your hair absorbs and maintains moisture. Porous hair absorbs moisture (water) rather quickly, but - just as quickly - loses it. I like to compare high porous hair to a chamois. Great at absorbing water, and equally great at releasing it.

Lifted cuticles are the main reason for this leak in moisture. Those with high porosity hair tend to find that their hair will be moisturized after washing and treating, but dry within a few days.

So how does one retain moisture? Closing the cuticle of the hair shaft.

There are various ways to seal your hair so that moisture does not escape as quickly. Start by increasing your use of coconut oil. I use coconut oil for...everything. It's the Franks Red Hot Wing Sauce of my life. I put it in my hair, slather it on as lotion, make sugar scrubs, and use it to remove make up, etc. Coconut, along with Olive and Sunflower oil are known for their deep penetrating properties. Use of any of these oils will not only infuse your hair with moisture, but also prevent your hair from drying out quickly. If porous hair is the reason for dry hair and ends, adding some oil to your ends can also help.

Another useful porous hair accouterment is deep conditioning. Because you hair loses moisture at a quicker rate than others with medium or low porosity hair, you'll want to provide your hair with more moisture than normal. This is especially useful in the winter (drier) months of the year when cold temperatures have a habit of leeching your hair of moisture.

I may be the only fan of ACV rinses. They work wonders for my dandruff, product build-up, and low porosity hair. They also work for those with high porosity hair. Because the cuticle of your hair is constantly raised (allowing moisture to be absorbed and depleted), a weekly ACV rinse will close the cuticle and seal in moisture, essentially improving the condition of your hair.

For those of you who have noticed that the porosity of your hair has changed, this usually occurs after chemically altering (relaxing, coloring, etc.) your strands. Relaxing or coloring your hair will lift the cuticle to allow the color or relaxer to penetrate the hair strand, often times, the hair remains that way.

Also, if your hair is already highly porous, you'll want to be extra careful when considering adding chemicals to your hair. Coloring and relaxing your hair lifts the cuticle in order for the chemicals to alter the hair shaft, many times, the hair becomes damaged and the cuticles remain lifted, thereby allowing moisture to flow through, but not remain.

The more you know, the more you grow.

Training Day

I'm obsessed with drinking water. I try to drink about half my weight in ounces a day. But this past week I went on a brownie and Dr. Pepper binge, and ended up with a blemish (or 2). So, today I treated my self to a facial from an aesthetician who caters to one of the most widely seen faces in America... the world even.

She's gifted.

I know I have said that I like to share my black book of service providers, but I'm feeling a bit greedy and want to hold onto this gem for a few more sessions and then release her details.

This post isn't about my obsession with drinking water or amazing facial, it's actually about a comment someone made while I was en route to the spa.

Inquisitive Female: How do you train your hair?

Me: I don't.

IF: Oh, your hair looks so manageable, not nappy like mine.

... if you know me, you already know where this is heading.

Me: *blank stare / shady smile * Natural hair isn't nappy, and can be managed with patience and the proper know how. *puts on headphones* 

I'm probably the only natural person who has not, does not, or will not 'train' my hair. I've said this many times before and firmly believe it: Sheeba has trained me.

You hair grows out of your scalp in a particular wave/curl pattern, there is little that can be done (that's healthy) to change that. Sure you can heat damage, texturize, text-lax, or relax to achieve a desired curl pattern, but then you'd have to re-touch your new growth every so often to maintain it.

Now if you have absolutely no curl pattern, there are plenty of ways to style your mane to achieve a particular look, no training required.

I went natural.... to be natural. 100% me, no chemicals, additives, or preservatives. Instead of training your hair, why not train yourself to love the hair you have? 

The Low-Po Low Down

My old roomie/Soror/fellow granny boo is on her journey to Nubian Nappturalness (yay!) and every now and then she'll ask a transition related question.

The other day she asked me for tips regarding moisturizing her hair. And I immediately had her do a porosity test - which revealed that she had low-porosity hair. I didn't find out that I had low-po hair until last year, and once I knew how to keep Sheeba moisturized, my hair began growing and retaining a tremendous amount of length. That is when my drape game changed.

Throughout the natural hair community, you'll find posts speaking to the science of hair. I used to ignore such information until I realized its value. You don't have to be a Chemistry major to understand that what you put into your body plays as much of a vital role in hair growth and retention as what you put on your hair.  PH, porosity, elasticity, etc. are all essential to healthy and long natural hair.

So back to porosity. The porosity of ones hair is essentially how well your hair soaks up and retains moisture. High porosity hair is very porous, it has no problem absorbing moisture, but on the flip-side it also does not retain moisture. Low porosity hair is virtually the opposite, it has a difficult time absorbing moisture, but once it has been moisturized, it retains it well.

Do you know the po' of your hair? Take a strand (preferably shed hair with root bulb attached). Drop it into some room temp water and wait 10 or so minutes. If it floats your hair is low-po, if it sinks it's high-po, and if it just makes its way to the middle ... well it's medium-po. 

Since Sheeba is low-po, I'll highlight that today. 

For the longest time I used to wonder why water and oil just 'sat' on my hair. After washing or oiling my hair, I would notice whole droplets still intact hours after. If you wash your hair and notice droplets of water sitting on top, or notice a greasy feeling after moisturizing, this post is for you. Low porosity hair basically means that each strands cuticles are laid flat and sealed tightly, making it hard for moisture to enter and leave. 

So how does one take care of low- po hair? Heat.

That's actually one word I rarely use here at SoSheeba, but it's the key for keeping your hair lush.

Hot oil, heated deep conditioning, and steam treatments are Sheeba's BEST friends. Because my hair seals in moisture well, I spend a bulk of my time making sure moisture gets into each strand during my pre-poo phase. 

If you have low-po hair try an olive oil and honey hot oil treatment and sit under the steamer, and thank me later. 

During the spring and summer I love using humectants like glycerin, rose water, and honey that draw moisture into the cuticle. During the warmer months, I like adding a humectant to my leave-in conditioner before styling.

Another low-po go-to of mine is adding baking soda to my wash routine. Before cleansing with my coco-castille cleanser, I'll dissolve about a teaspoon of baking soda into a cup of warm water and dump it on, then cleanse, and finally wash everything out. Using baking soda 'lift' the cuticles of your strands so make sure you rinse thoroughly and do an ACV rinse afterwards to seal the cuticle.

I cannot stress the importance of understanding the porosity of your hair. It took me 3 years to understand mine and then realize that my hair could have been twice the length it is now, had I known how to retain moisture. It may take you a while, but once you understand your hair, you'll know what is required to keep it healthy and growing.

Hope this helps and happy growing.

Curly Casting Call

Hey loves,

A lil birdie informed me of a casting call that Carols Daughter is having this week. 

Casting ends Thursday and I can't make it to NY before then to dazzle them with Sheeba, but I wanted to pass along the info to anyone in the NY/NJ area who may be available Wednesday or Thursday from 2-6pm. Despite the ad, they are not casting on Friday. 

Good Luck!!

Distance makes the heart grow fonder

Took my hair down last night, and loved Sheeba for all of 10 minutes lol. While I enjoy  a good weave, I prefer having access to my hair whenever I want to wear her out or spend an hour massaging my scalp with oil.

This love-hate relationship with Sheeba makes me really appreciate her. I miss her dearly when she's gone and hate her the moment I step into the tub to wash her.

I've considered having her done professionally, but Im too frugal to pay for a service I can do myself ( i.e. two strand twists, twist outs, updos, etc). I only feel comfortable paying for a press, since I know I'll burn my hair off getting it bone straight.

So wigs shall be my happy medium. I can hide my hair, and still have access to it whenever I'd like. 

She's a beast. 

Oddly enough, it only took me an hour to wash and style her (after deep conditioning for an hour). I'm not sure if it is the length or the fact that I just wanted to go to bed that contributed to the shorter wash time. 

I'm about 4 inches from my desired length (stretched) but may very well already be there if I press my hair. Once I hit my mark, I'm cutting it. I miss the days of the wash n go twa. 

It's been a while. How's the growing going?